Sunday, December 14, 2008
Shorthanded Omaha 8/b
I recently sat down in a $10/$20 Omaha 8/b game with a full kill (this means you play $20/$40 on the next hand if someone scooped a pot and the winner has to post). We were short handed after a Hold 'Em player went bust and I was clearly the rock at the table. While no particular hand was interesting enough to warrant its own entry, one observation I had was that in limit games as opposed to no limit or pot limit you won't scare away an aggressive player when you bet. In a no limit or pot limit game if a rock starts betting at a flop everyone usually dumps their hand. However, in a limit game (and especially omaha 8/b) aggressive players will tend to call you to try and catch their draw. It is hard to bet someone out of a pot in limit games. Thus, if you are a rock, you do need to mix up your play from time to time and get in with a non-premium hand. This is even more important when short handed.
Monday, September 22, 2008
Continuation Betting
I think the one "play" that everyone is now aware of is continuation betting. For example, leading out on the flop (or 4th street) after making a raise pre-flop (or on 3rd street). This is so common that the continuation bet does not nearly get the respect that it once did. What I've found is that leading out on the turn (or 5th street) after making the normal continuation bet will get the respect that continuation bets once did.
That being said, you have to prepare to defend against those players who will raise any continuation bet you make. Of course, when you have the nuts, this is a profitable situation, but if you missed, you are usually folding to a raise. The best way to defend against this in my opinion is to not make the continuation bet as often. Checking behind will add a bit of deception to your game and keep your opponents guessing. Now that continuation betting is the "obvious play", do something that is not obvious, like checking, and see what that gets you. The only warning to this is to watch out for the draw that hits on the turn--you may have to proceed cautiously after that (or it may be a perfect bluff card ;) ).
That being said, you have to prepare to defend against those players who will raise any continuation bet you make. Of course, when you have the nuts, this is a profitable situation, but if you missed, you are usually folding to a raise. The best way to defend against this in my opinion is to not make the continuation bet as often. Checking behind will add a bit of deception to your game and keep your opponents guessing. Now that continuation betting is the "obvious play", do something that is not obvious, like checking, and see what that gets you. The only warning to this is to watch out for the draw that hits on the turn--you may have to proceed cautiously after that (or it may be a perfect bluff card ;) ).
Thursday, June 19, 2008
World Series of Poker
I decided to play the $1,500 Razz event at this year's WSOP. If you are a serious poker player, you should at a minimum attend the festivities. Even if you are not playing, there is plenty to do. I was not successful in cashing in the event despite a great Level 1 where I was among the chip leaders. I get back to around my starting stack level after getting coolered with a 7 low running into a 6 low. However, it was one interesting pot that I played that crippled me and I'm still trying to figure out my opponents logic on this one.
It is folded to me with only 1 or 2 wheel cards dead and I have a 3 up and there are 2 players between myself and the bring in. One player is showing a 10 and one is showing a 9. I make the standard completion with my and and get called by the 9. I have my opponent covered and he is somewhat shortstacked.
3RD STREET
Me: (Q-2)-3
Opponent: (x-x)-9
I think my play is automatic and I figured my opponent was defending with a rough 9 draw, a hand like 5-7-9 or 4-8-9. I don't think defending with a 9 is that bad of a play, but at that point in the tournament, I wouldn't want to play a big pot where I started with a rough 9.
4TH STREET
Me: (Q-2)-3-8
Opponent: (x-x)-9-3
I bet on 4th and get called. We both caught a good card. Because I got called, I didn't think the 3 paired my opponent. This further confirmed my read of a rough 9 draw. I figured I can easily represent an 8 low or take the pot away on 5th if we both catch bad. This is why I bet with my hand. If my opponent put me on an 8 draw, calling with a rough 9 draw is not a good play. However, my opponent might have thought that the 8 paired me.
5TH STREET
Me: (Q-2)-3-8-J
Opponent: (x-x)-9-3-J
This is actually a good card for me as nothing has changed from 4th street. I led out representing a made J-8 low and to my surprise I got called again by my opponent. I don't know if my opponent picked up a read on me, but I had not pulled off any moves like this the entire tournament. If my opponent was going with the read that I was paired, then the call is fine, but with very few dead wheel cards out, it would appear that I held two wheel cards in the hole.
6TH STREET
Me: (Q-2)-3-8-J-J
Opponent: (x-x)-9-3-J-Q
This is where it gets interesting. Again, nothing changes on 6th street as far as the hand strength goes. I'm still representing a made J-8 low and the best my opponent can make is a 9 low. Since I'm paired my opponent has the lead. He checks to me and I bet. Then, I get check-raised and my opponent is all in. I guess my opponent wanted to gamble, but putting in a raise there just doesn't make any sense, even if he can't make a full bet on 7th. I just don't understand the raise. If he is beat, he gets called instantly. If he waits until 7th to bet, he gets called if he is beat and the J-8 low that I was representing would also have to call. However, if he checks 7th, I would likely check behind him with the J-8 low I'm trying to represent and if he hand was no good, he would still have chips.
I took a while to make the call and it was obvious that I was paired or had a high card. He thought I was paired, but was surprised when I showed the Q-2 in the hole. Of course, my opponent had a made J-9 low and I had to improve my hand.
7TH STREET
Me: (Q-2)-3-8-J-J-(Q)
Opponent: (5-7)-9-3-J-Q-(J)
My opponent turned up his 7th street card first and showed the J. That was a good sign for me as I knew I was drawing live. I needed an A, 4, 5, 6 or a 7. I didn't like seeing a dead 5 and 7 in my opponent's hand and I recalled a dead ace from another player's upcard on 3rd. That is 17 outs (assuming all cards are live). I missed and hit a Q on 7th. My Q-J low lost to a J-9 low.
I don't think I played this hand in a poor fashion. I guess the only spot where I could have gotten away from it was on 4th street when we both caught good. I can check on 4th and fold to a bet. In hindsight, that is the safer play, but I'm still surprised by my opponent's play on 5th and 6th streets on this hand.
A few hands later, I get it all in with 5-6-7 against 2-4-8. I make an 8-7 low on 5th and my opponent (same guy) makes an 8-5 low on 7th. All in all, I was happy with my play. I know I can play with the best in the world and I hope to return to the WSOP in future years.
It is folded to me with only 1 or 2 wheel cards dead and I have a 3 up and there are 2 players between myself and the bring in. One player is showing a 10 and one is showing a 9. I make the standard completion with my and and get called by the 9. I have my opponent covered and he is somewhat shortstacked.
3RD STREET
Me: (Q-2)-3
Opponent: (x-x)-9
I think my play is automatic and I figured my opponent was defending with a rough 9 draw, a hand like 5-7-9 or 4-8-9. I don't think defending with a 9 is that bad of a play, but at that point in the tournament, I wouldn't want to play a big pot where I started with a rough 9.
4TH STREET
Me: (Q-2)-3-8
Opponent: (x-x)-9-3
I bet on 4th and get called. We both caught a good card. Because I got called, I didn't think the 3 paired my opponent. This further confirmed my read of a rough 9 draw. I figured I can easily represent an 8 low or take the pot away on 5th if we both catch bad. This is why I bet with my hand. If my opponent put me on an 8 draw, calling with a rough 9 draw is not a good play. However, my opponent might have thought that the 8 paired me.
5TH STREET
Me: (Q-2)-3-8-J
Opponent: (x-x)-9-3-J
This is actually a good card for me as nothing has changed from 4th street. I led out representing a made J-8 low and to my surprise I got called again by my opponent. I don't know if my opponent picked up a read on me, but I had not pulled off any moves like this the entire tournament. If my opponent was going with the read that I was paired, then the call is fine, but with very few dead wheel cards out, it would appear that I held two wheel cards in the hole.
6TH STREET
Me: (Q-2)-3-8-J-J
Opponent: (x-x)-9-3-J-Q
This is where it gets interesting. Again, nothing changes on 6th street as far as the hand strength goes. I'm still representing a made J-8 low and the best my opponent can make is a 9 low. Since I'm paired my opponent has the lead. He checks to me and I bet. Then, I get check-raised and my opponent is all in. I guess my opponent wanted to gamble, but putting in a raise there just doesn't make any sense, even if he can't make a full bet on 7th. I just don't understand the raise. If he is beat, he gets called instantly. If he waits until 7th to bet, he gets called if he is beat and the J-8 low that I was representing would also have to call. However, if he checks 7th, I would likely check behind him with the J-8 low I'm trying to represent and if he hand was no good, he would still have chips.
I took a while to make the call and it was obvious that I was paired or had a high card. He thought I was paired, but was surprised when I showed the Q-2 in the hole. Of course, my opponent had a made J-9 low and I had to improve my hand.
7TH STREET
Me: (Q-2)-3-8-J-J-(Q)
Opponent: (5-7)-9-3-J-Q-(J)
My opponent turned up his 7th street card first and showed the J. That was a good sign for me as I knew I was drawing live. I needed an A, 4, 5, 6 or a 7. I didn't like seeing a dead 5 and 7 in my opponent's hand and I recalled a dead ace from another player's upcard on 3rd. That is 17 outs (assuming all cards are live). I missed and hit a Q on 7th. My Q-J low lost to a J-9 low.
I don't think I played this hand in a poor fashion. I guess the only spot where I could have gotten away from it was on 4th street when we both caught good. I can check on 4th and fold to a bet. In hindsight, that is the safer play, but I'm still surprised by my opponent's play on 5th and 6th streets on this hand.
A few hands later, I get it all in with 5-6-7 against 2-4-8. I make an 8-7 low on 5th and my opponent (same guy) makes an 8-5 low on 7th. All in all, I was happy with my play. I know I can play with the best in the world and I hope to return to the WSOP in future years.
Thursday, June 5, 2008
Getting Quartered
A lot has been written about getting quartered (or worse) when you and an opponent both have the nut low in omaha 8/b. However, there is also the unfortunate situation where you and your opponent will both have the same high hand. I think this aspect of getting quartered is not given the attention that it deserves. While you are more likely to get quartered on the low half of the pot, beware of getting quartered on the high end.
This should help reiterate the fact that you need to have a hand that can play both ways when you enter a pot in omaha 8/b. Obvious exceptions are in very loose games where you are practically priced in to see the flop with any reasonable starting hand. Inexperienced players will make the fatal mistake of jamming a pot with the nut straight or top full house and think that they are a lock to win the pot. If you get a lot of action, you should slow down as you don't want to get quartered on the high. Of course, the best situation is if you have the nuts both ways; in that case, jam away.
I know this isn't any kind of new revelation, but just one of those forgotten little items that we all need to be reminded about to keep our games sharp.
This should help reiterate the fact that you need to have a hand that can play both ways when you enter a pot in omaha 8/b. Obvious exceptions are in very loose games where you are practically priced in to see the flop with any reasonable starting hand. Inexperienced players will make the fatal mistake of jamming a pot with the nut straight or top full house and think that they are a lock to win the pot. If you get a lot of action, you should slow down as you don't want to get quartered on the high. Of course, the best situation is if you have the nuts both ways; in that case, jam away.
I know this isn't any kind of new revelation, but just one of those forgotten little items that we all need to be reminded about to keep our games sharp.
Monday, May 5, 2008
Play of the Day
Situation: Home game; 5 handed; No Limit Hold 'Em; $0.25/$0.50 blinds
Player under the gun raises in the dark to $1.50. I look down at Qs-Qc and reraise to $4.50. The button folds, the small blind and big blind call the $4.50 as does the dark raiser. The pot is now at $18. The flop comes Ks-6h-6c. Action checks to me and I bet $9. The small blind now raises me $9 more, for a total of $18. Both remaining players fold. I reraise another $9 to make it $27 total. The small blind raises $20 more, for a total of $47. I reraise all in for about $80 total. Small blind folds, I win the pot.
Analysis: The small blind knew I was making a feeler/continuation bet when I led out for $9 on the flop with my 2 pair. So, a good play is to check-raise to represent at least kings up and get me off of the hand. At the same time, a minimum raise is a feeler raise just as my initial bet was a feeler bet. I didn't think the small blind could call another raise, but I didn't want to over value my hand in case I was beat. I also felt that if I was beat by a hand like A-K or 6-x, the small blind would reraise me all in. So, when I was only reraised $20, I felt like the small blind was up to some thievery and I pushed all in. The small blind admitted to having A-J and complimented me on my good play/read.
Player under the gun raises in the dark to $1.50. I look down at Qs-Qc and reraise to $4.50. The button folds, the small blind and big blind call the $4.50 as does the dark raiser. The pot is now at $18. The flop comes Ks-6h-6c. Action checks to me and I bet $9. The small blind now raises me $9 more, for a total of $18. Both remaining players fold. I reraise another $9 to make it $27 total. The small blind raises $20 more, for a total of $47. I reraise all in for about $80 total. Small blind folds, I win the pot.
Analysis: The small blind knew I was making a feeler/continuation bet when I led out for $9 on the flop with my 2 pair. So, a good play is to check-raise to represent at least kings up and get me off of the hand. At the same time, a minimum raise is a feeler raise just as my initial bet was a feeler bet. I didn't think the small blind could call another raise, but I didn't want to over value my hand in case I was beat. I also felt that if I was beat by a hand like A-K or 6-x, the small blind would reraise me all in. So, when I was only reraised $20, I felt like the small blind was up to some thievery and I pushed all in. The small blind admitted to having A-J and complimented me on my good play/read.
Saturday, March 29, 2008
Big Comeback
I was playing a heads up HORSE tournament. I was down to 100 in chips with stakes 100/200. I came back to win it all. Here is how it happened.
Seat 1: Seat1 (2,900)
Seat 2: Seat2 (100)
Seat2 posts the small blind of 50
Seat1 posts the big blind of 100
The button is in seat #2
*** HOLE CARDS ***
Dealt to Seat2 [Kd Qd]
Seat2 calls 50, and is all in
Seat1 shows [2s 4d]
Seat2 shows [Kd Qd]
*** FLOP *** [Th Js 3h]
*** TURN *** [Th Js 3h] [Qh]
*** RIVER *** [Th Js 3h Qh] [8d]
Seat1 shows Queen Jack high
Seat2 shows a pair of Queens
Seat2 wins the pot (200) with a pair of Queens
*** SUMMARY ***
Total pot 200 Rake 0
Board: [Th Js 3h Qh 8d]
Seat 1: Seat1 (big blind) showed [2s 4d] and lost with Queen Jack high
Seat 2: Seat2 (small blind) showed [Kd Qd] and won (200) with a pair of Queens
Seat 1: Seat1 (2,800)
Seat 2: Seat2 (200)
Seat1 posts the small blind of 50
Seat2 posts the big blind of 100
The button is in seat #1
*** HOLE CARDS ***
Dealt to Seat2 [8h 7c]
Seat1 calls 50
Seat2 raises to 200, and is all in
Seat1 calls 100
Seat2 shows [8h 7c]
Seat1 shows [Ts 2c]
*** FLOP *** [5h 9h 2h]
*** TURN *** [5h 9h 2h] [3h]
*** RIVER *** [5h 9h 2h 3h] [Kh]
Seat2 shows a flush, King high
Seat1 shows a flush, King high
Seat2 wins the pot (400) with a flush, King high
*** SUMMARY ***
Total pot 400 Rake 0
Board: [5h 9h 2h 3h Kh]
Seat 1: Seat1 (small blind) showed [Ts 2c] and lost with a flush, King high
Seat 2: Seat2 (big blind) showed [8h 7c] and won (400) with a flush, King high
Seat 1: Seat1 (2,600)
Seat 2: Seat2 (400)
Seat2 posts the small blind of 50
Seat1 posts the big blind of 100
The button is in seat #2
*** HOLE CARDS ***
Dealt to Seat2 [2s 5s]
Seat2 calls 50
Seat1 checks
*** FLOP *** [Kd 5d Qs]
Seat1 bets 100
Seat2 has 15 seconds left to act
Seat2 calls 100
*** TURN *** [Kd 5d Qs] [As]
Seat1 bets 200
Seat2 calls 200, and is all in
Seat1 shows [3s Jc]
Seat2 shows [2s 5s]
*** RIVER *** [Kd 5d Qs As] [4d]
Seat1 shows Ace King high
Seat2 shows a pair of Fives
Seat2 wins the pot (800) with a pair of Fives
The game is now 120/240 Limit Omaha H/L
*** SUMMARY ***
Total pot 800 Rake 0
Board: [Kd 5d Qs As 4d]
Seat 1: Seat1 (big blind) showed [3s Jc] and lost with Ace King high
Seat 2: Seat2 (small blind) showed [2s 5s] and won (800) with a pair of Fives
Seat 1: Seat1 (2,200)
Seat 2: Seat2 (800)
Seat1 posts the small blind of 60
Seat2 posts the big blind of 120
The button is in seat #1
*** HOLE CARDS ***
Dealt to Seat2 [Ah 9d 4s 8c]
Seat1 calls 60
Seat2 checks
*** FLOP *** [Tc 7h Qd]
Seat2 bets 120
Seat1 calls 120
*** TURN *** [Tc 7h Qd] [2d]
Seat2 checks
Seat1 checks
*** RIVER *** [Tc 7h Qd 2d] [6h]
Seat2 bets 240
Seat1 has 15 seconds left to act
Seat1 folds
Uncalled bet of 240 returned to Seat2
Seat2 mucks
Seat2 wins the pot (480)
*** SUMMARY ***
Total pot 480 Rake 0
Board: [Tc 7h Qd 2d 6h]
Seat 1: Seat1 (small blind) folded on the River
Seat 2: Seat2 (big blind) collected (480), mucked
Seat 1: Seat1 (1,960)
Seat 2: Seat2 (1,040)
Seat2 posts the small blind of 60
Seat1 posts the big blind of 120
The button is in seat #2
*** HOLE CARDS ***
Dealt to Seat2 [9s 7c 2c Kd]
Seat2 calls 60
Seat1 checks
*** FLOP *** [8d 3c 5d]
Seat1 bets 120
Seat2 has 15 seconds left to act
Seat2 calls 120
*** TURN *** [8d 3c 5d] [6s]
Seat1 checks
Seat2 bets 240
Seat1 folds
Uncalled bet of 240 returned to Seat2
Seat2 mucks
Seat2 wins the pot (480)
*** SUMMARY ***
Total pot 480 Rake 0
Board: [8d 3c 5d 6s]
Seat 1: Seat1 (big blind) folded on the Turn
Seat 2: Seat2 (small blind) collected (480), mucked
Seat 1: Seat1 (1,720)
Seat 2: Seat2 (1,280)
Seat1 posts the small blind of 60
Seat2 posts the big blind of 120
The button is in seat #1
*** HOLE CARDS ***
Dealt to Seat2 [2c 5d Qd 9h]
Seat1 calls 60
Seat2 checks
*** FLOP *** [4s 2d 7s]
Seat2 checks
Seat1 checks
*** TURN *** [4s 2d 7s] [6c]
Seat2 checks
Seat1 checks
*** RIVER *** [4s 2d 7s 6c] [Ac]
Seat2 checks
Seat1 checks
*** SHOW DOWN ***
Seat2 shows [2c 5d Qd 9h] a pair of Twos, for high and 6,5,4,2,A, for low
Seat1 mucks
Seat2 wins the high pot (120) with a pair of Twos
Seat2 wins the low pot (120) with 6,5,4,2,A
*** SUMMARY ***
Total pot 240 Rake 0
Board: [4s 2d 7s 6c Ac]
Seat 1: Seat1 (small blind) mucked [Jd Kc 3s Ts] - HI: Ace King high
Seat 2: Seat2 (big blind) showed [2c 5d Qd 9h] and won (240) with HI: a pair of Twos; LO: 6,5,4,2,A
Seat 1: Seat1 (1,600)
Seat 2: Seat2 (1,400)
Seat2 posts the small blind of 60
Seat1 posts the big blind of 120
The button is in seat #2
*** HOLE CARDS ***
Dealt to Seat2 [4h Jh 3c 5d]
Seat2 calls 60
Seat1 raises to 240
Seat2 calls 120
*** FLOP *** [6c 7c 9d]
Seat1 bets 120
Seat2 calls 120
*** TURN *** [6c 7c 9d] [Js]
Seat1 bets 240
Seat2 calls 240
*** RIVER *** [6c 7c 9d Js] [9c]
Seat1 checks
Seat2 checks
*** SHOW DOWN ***
Seat1 shows [7s 2d 2s As] two pair, Nines and Sevens, for high
Seat2 shows [4h Jh 3c 5d] two pair, Jacks and Nines, for high
Seat2 wins the pot (1,200) with two pair, Jacks and Nines
No low hand qualified
*** SUMMARY ***
Total pot 1,200 Rake 0
Board: [6c 7c 9d Js 9c]
Seat 1: Seat1 (big blind) showed [7s 2d 2s As] and lost with HI: two pair, Nines and Sevens
Seat 2: Seat2 (small blind) showed [4h Jh 3c 5d] and won (1,200) with HI: two pair, Jacks and Nines
Seat 1: Seat1 (1,000)
Seat 2: Seat2 (2,000)
Seat1 posts the small blind of 60
Seat2 posts the big blind of 120
The button is in seat #1
*** HOLE CARDS ***
Dealt to Seat2 [8h 3d 4h 6c]
Seat1 calls 60
Seat2 checks
*** FLOP *** [Kd Js 5d]
Seat2 checks
Seat1 bets 120
Seat2 folds
Uncalled bet of 120 returned to Seat1
Seat1 mucks
Seat1 wins the pot (240)
*** SUMMARY ***
Total pot 240 Rake 0
Board: [Kd Js 5d]
Seat 1: Seat1 (small blind) collected (240), mucked
Seat 2: Seat2 (big blind) folded on the Flop
Seat 1: Seat1 (1,120)
Seat 2: Seat2 (1,880)
Seat2 posts the small blind of 60
Seat1 posts the big blind of 120
The button is in seat #2
*** HOLE CARDS ***
Dealt to Seat2 [Ts 6h Jc 3c]
Seat2 calls 60
Seat1 checks
*** FLOP *** [8d 8c Tc]
Seat1 checks
Seat2 bets 120
Seat1 folds
Uncalled bet of 120 returned to Seat2
Seat2 mucks
Seat2 wins the pot (240)
*** SUMMARY ***
Total pot 240 Rake 0
Board: [8d 8c Tc]
Seat 1: Seat1 (big blind) folded on the Flop
Seat 2: Seat2 (small blind) collected (240), mucked
Seat 1: Seat1 (1,000)
Seat 2: Seat2 (2,000)
Seat1 posts the small blind of 60
Seat2 posts the big blind of 120
The button is in seat #1
*** HOLE CARDS ***
Dealt to Seat2 [7s Ad 9h Jc]
Seat1 calls 60
Seat2 checks
*** FLOP *** [7h 8d 6h]
Seat2 checks
Seat1 checks
*** TURN *** [7h 8d 6h] [6c]
Seat2 checks
Seat1 checks
*** RIVER *** [7h 8d 6h 6c] [Jd]
Seat2 checks
Seat1 checks
*** SHOW DOWN ***
Seat2 shows [7s Ad 9h Jc] two pair, Jacks and Sevens, for high
Seat1 shows [Qc Ks Qh 9s] two pair, Queens and Sixes, for high
Seat1 wins the pot (240) with two pair, Queens and Sixes
No low hand qualified
*** SUMMARY ***
Total pot 240 Rake 0
Board: [7h 8d 6h 6c Jd]
Seat 1: Seat1 (small blind) showed [Qc Ks Qh 9s] and won (240) with HI: two pair, Queens and Sixes
Seat 2: Seat2 (big blind) showed [7s Ad 9h Jc] and lost with HI: two pair, Jacks and Sevens
Seat 1: Seat1 (1,120)
Seat 2: Seat2 (1,880)
Seat2 posts the small blind of 60
Seat1 posts the big blind of 120
The button is in seat #2
*** HOLE CARDS ***
Dealt to Seat2 [Jd Ah 3s 8s]
Seat2 raises to 240
Seat1 calls 120
*** FLOP *** [Ad 2d Kh]
Seat1 checks
Seat2 bets 120
Seat1 calls 120
*** TURN *** [Ad 2d Kh] [As]
Seat1 checks
Seat2 bets 240
Seat1 folds
Uncalled bet of 240 returned to Seat2
Seat2 mucks
Seat2 wins the pot (720)
*** SUMMARY ***
Total pot 720 Rake 0
Board: [Ad 2d Kh As]
Seat 1: Seat1 (big blind) folded on the Turn
Seat 2: Seat2 (small blind) collected (720), mucked
Seat 1: Seat1 (760)
Seat 2: Seat2 (2,240)
Seat1 posts the small blind of 60
Seat2 posts the big blind of 120
The button is in seat #1
*** HOLE CARDS ***
Dealt to Seat2 [3s 6d 4s Ad]
Seat1 calls 60
Seat2 checks
*** FLOP *** [4c Ks 7c]
Seat2 bets 120
Seat1 calls 120
*** TURN *** [4c Ks 7c] [5h]
Seat2 bets 240
Seat1 raises to 480
Seat2 raises to 720
Seat1 calls 40, and is all in
Seat2 shows [3s 6d 4s Ad]
Seat1 shows [7d 5d 5c Tc]
Uncalled bet of 200 returned to Seat2
*** RIVER *** [4c Ks 7c 5h] [8d]
Seat2 shows a straight, Eight high, for high andSeat2 shows 7,5,4,3,A, for low
Seat1 shows three of a kind, Fives, for high
Seat2 wins the high pot (760) with a straight, Eight high
Seat2 wins the low pot (760) with 7,5,4,3,A
Seat1 stands up
Seat2 stands up
*** SUMMARY ***
Total pot 1,520 Rake 0
Board: [4c Ks 7c 5h 8d]
Seat 1: Seat1 (small blind) showed [7d 5d 5c Tc] and lost with HI: three of a kind, Fives
Seat 2: Seat2 (big blind) showed [3s 6d 4s Ad] and won (1,520) with HI: a straight, Eight high; LO: 7,5,4,3,A
Seat 1: Seat1 (2,900)
Seat 2: Seat2 (100)
Seat2 posts the small blind of 50
Seat1 posts the big blind of 100
The button is in seat #2
*** HOLE CARDS ***
Dealt to Seat2 [Kd Qd]
Seat2 calls 50, and is all in
Seat1 shows [2s 4d]
Seat2 shows [Kd Qd]
*** FLOP *** [Th Js 3h]
*** TURN *** [Th Js 3h] [Qh]
*** RIVER *** [Th Js 3h Qh] [8d]
Seat1 shows Queen Jack high
Seat2 shows a pair of Queens
Seat2 wins the pot (200) with a pair of Queens
*** SUMMARY ***
Total pot 200 Rake 0
Board: [Th Js 3h Qh 8d]
Seat 1: Seat1 (big blind) showed [2s 4d] and lost with Queen Jack high
Seat 2: Seat2 (small blind) showed [Kd Qd] and won (200) with a pair of Queens
Seat 1: Seat1 (2,800)
Seat 2: Seat2 (200)
Seat1 posts the small blind of 50
Seat2 posts the big blind of 100
The button is in seat #1
*** HOLE CARDS ***
Dealt to Seat2 [8h 7c]
Seat1 calls 50
Seat2 raises to 200, and is all in
Seat1 calls 100
Seat2 shows [8h 7c]
Seat1 shows [Ts 2c]
*** FLOP *** [5h 9h 2h]
*** TURN *** [5h 9h 2h] [3h]
*** RIVER *** [5h 9h 2h 3h] [Kh]
Seat2 shows a flush, King high
Seat1 shows a flush, King high
Seat2 wins the pot (400) with a flush, King high
*** SUMMARY ***
Total pot 400 Rake 0
Board: [5h 9h 2h 3h Kh]
Seat 1: Seat1 (small blind) showed [Ts 2c] and lost with a flush, King high
Seat 2: Seat2 (big blind) showed [8h 7c] and won (400) with a flush, King high
Seat 1: Seat1 (2,600)
Seat 2: Seat2 (400)
Seat2 posts the small blind of 50
Seat1 posts the big blind of 100
The button is in seat #2
*** HOLE CARDS ***
Dealt to Seat2 [2s 5s]
Seat2 calls 50
Seat1 checks
*** FLOP *** [Kd 5d Qs]
Seat1 bets 100
Seat2 has 15 seconds left to act
Seat2 calls 100
*** TURN *** [Kd 5d Qs] [As]
Seat1 bets 200
Seat2 calls 200, and is all in
Seat1 shows [3s Jc]
Seat2 shows [2s 5s]
*** RIVER *** [Kd 5d Qs As] [4d]
Seat1 shows Ace King high
Seat2 shows a pair of Fives
Seat2 wins the pot (800) with a pair of Fives
The game is now 120/240 Limit Omaha H/L
*** SUMMARY ***
Total pot 800 Rake 0
Board: [Kd 5d Qs As 4d]
Seat 1: Seat1 (big blind) showed [3s Jc] and lost with Ace King high
Seat 2: Seat2 (small blind) showed [2s 5s] and won (800) with a pair of Fives
Seat 1: Seat1 (2,200)
Seat 2: Seat2 (800)
Seat1 posts the small blind of 60
Seat2 posts the big blind of 120
The button is in seat #1
*** HOLE CARDS ***
Dealt to Seat2 [Ah 9d 4s 8c]
Seat1 calls 60
Seat2 checks
*** FLOP *** [Tc 7h Qd]
Seat2 bets 120
Seat1 calls 120
*** TURN *** [Tc 7h Qd] [2d]
Seat2 checks
Seat1 checks
*** RIVER *** [Tc 7h Qd 2d] [6h]
Seat2 bets 240
Seat1 has 15 seconds left to act
Seat1 folds
Uncalled bet of 240 returned to Seat2
Seat2 mucks
Seat2 wins the pot (480)
*** SUMMARY ***
Total pot 480 Rake 0
Board: [Tc 7h Qd 2d 6h]
Seat 1: Seat1 (small blind) folded on the River
Seat 2: Seat2 (big blind) collected (480), mucked
Seat 1: Seat1 (1,960)
Seat 2: Seat2 (1,040)
Seat2 posts the small blind of 60
Seat1 posts the big blind of 120
The button is in seat #2
*** HOLE CARDS ***
Dealt to Seat2 [9s 7c 2c Kd]
Seat2 calls 60
Seat1 checks
*** FLOP *** [8d 3c 5d]
Seat1 bets 120
Seat2 has 15 seconds left to act
Seat2 calls 120
*** TURN *** [8d 3c 5d] [6s]
Seat1 checks
Seat2 bets 240
Seat1 folds
Uncalled bet of 240 returned to Seat2
Seat2 mucks
Seat2 wins the pot (480)
*** SUMMARY ***
Total pot 480 Rake 0
Board: [8d 3c 5d 6s]
Seat 1: Seat1 (big blind) folded on the Turn
Seat 2: Seat2 (small blind) collected (480), mucked
Seat 1: Seat1 (1,720)
Seat 2: Seat2 (1,280)
Seat1 posts the small blind of 60
Seat2 posts the big blind of 120
The button is in seat #1
*** HOLE CARDS ***
Dealt to Seat2 [2c 5d Qd 9h]
Seat1 calls 60
Seat2 checks
*** FLOP *** [4s 2d 7s]
Seat2 checks
Seat1 checks
*** TURN *** [4s 2d 7s] [6c]
Seat2 checks
Seat1 checks
*** RIVER *** [4s 2d 7s 6c] [Ac]
Seat2 checks
Seat1 checks
*** SHOW DOWN ***
Seat2 shows [2c 5d Qd 9h] a pair of Twos, for high and 6,5,4,2,A, for low
Seat1 mucks
Seat2 wins the high pot (120) with a pair of Twos
Seat2 wins the low pot (120) with 6,5,4,2,A
*** SUMMARY ***
Total pot 240 Rake 0
Board: [4s 2d 7s 6c Ac]
Seat 1: Seat1 (small blind) mucked [Jd Kc 3s Ts] - HI: Ace King high
Seat 2: Seat2 (big blind) showed [2c 5d Qd 9h] and won (240) with HI: a pair of Twos; LO: 6,5,4,2,A
Seat 1: Seat1 (1,600)
Seat 2: Seat2 (1,400)
Seat2 posts the small blind of 60
Seat1 posts the big blind of 120
The button is in seat #2
*** HOLE CARDS ***
Dealt to Seat2 [4h Jh 3c 5d]
Seat2 calls 60
Seat1 raises to 240
Seat2 calls 120
*** FLOP *** [6c 7c 9d]
Seat1 bets 120
Seat2 calls 120
*** TURN *** [6c 7c 9d] [Js]
Seat1 bets 240
Seat2 calls 240
*** RIVER *** [6c 7c 9d Js] [9c]
Seat1 checks
Seat2 checks
*** SHOW DOWN ***
Seat1 shows [7s 2d 2s As] two pair, Nines and Sevens, for high
Seat2 shows [4h Jh 3c 5d] two pair, Jacks and Nines, for high
Seat2 wins the pot (1,200) with two pair, Jacks and Nines
No low hand qualified
*** SUMMARY ***
Total pot 1,200 Rake 0
Board: [6c 7c 9d Js 9c]
Seat 1: Seat1 (big blind) showed [7s 2d 2s As] and lost with HI: two pair, Nines and Sevens
Seat 2: Seat2 (small blind) showed [4h Jh 3c 5d] and won (1,200) with HI: two pair, Jacks and Nines
Seat 1: Seat1 (1,000)
Seat 2: Seat2 (2,000)
Seat1 posts the small blind of 60
Seat2 posts the big blind of 120
The button is in seat #1
*** HOLE CARDS ***
Dealt to Seat2 [8h 3d 4h 6c]
Seat1 calls 60
Seat2 checks
*** FLOP *** [Kd Js 5d]
Seat2 checks
Seat1 bets 120
Seat2 folds
Uncalled bet of 120 returned to Seat1
Seat1 mucks
Seat1 wins the pot (240)
*** SUMMARY ***
Total pot 240 Rake 0
Board: [Kd Js 5d]
Seat 1: Seat1 (small blind) collected (240), mucked
Seat 2: Seat2 (big blind) folded on the Flop
Seat 1: Seat1 (1,120)
Seat 2: Seat2 (1,880)
Seat2 posts the small blind of 60
Seat1 posts the big blind of 120
The button is in seat #2
*** HOLE CARDS ***
Dealt to Seat2 [Ts 6h Jc 3c]
Seat2 calls 60
Seat1 checks
*** FLOP *** [8d 8c Tc]
Seat1 checks
Seat2 bets 120
Seat1 folds
Uncalled bet of 120 returned to Seat2
Seat2 mucks
Seat2 wins the pot (240)
*** SUMMARY ***
Total pot 240 Rake 0
Board: [8d 8c Tc]
Seat 1: Seat1 (big blind) folded on the Flop
Seat 2: Seat2 (small blind) collected (240), mucked
Seat 1: Seat1 (1,000)
Seat 2: Seat2 (2,000)
Seat1 posts the small blind of 60
Seat2 posts the big blind of 120
The button is in seat #1
*** HOLE CARDS ***
Dealt to Seat2 [7s Ad 9h Jc]
Seat1 calls 60
Seat2 checks
*** FLOP *** [7h 8d 6h]
Seat2 checks
Seat1 checks
*** TURN *** [7h 8d 6h] [6c]
Seat2 checks
Seat1 checks
*** RIVER *** [7h 8d 6h 6c] [Jd]
Seat2 checks
Seat1 checks
*** SHOW DOWN ***
Seat2 shows [7s Ad 9h Jc] two pair, Jacks and Sevens, for high
Seat1 shows [Qc Ks Qh 9s] two pair, Queens and Sixes, for high
Seat1 wins the pot (240) with two pair, Queens and Sixes
No low hand qualified
*** SUMMARY ***
Total pot 240 Rake 0
Board: [7h 8d 6h 6c Jd]
Seat 1: Seat1 (small blind) showed [Qc Ks Qh 9s] and won (240) with HI: two pair, Queens and Sixes
Seat 2: Seat2 (big blind) showed [7s Ad 9h Jc] and lost with HI: two pair, Jacks and Sevens
Seat 1: Seat1 (1,120)
Seat 2: Seat2 (1,880)
Seat2 posts the small blind of 60
Seat1 posts the big blind of 120
The button is in seat #2
*** HOLE CARDS ***
Dealt to Seat2 [Jd Ah 3s 8s]
Seat2 raises to 240
Seat1 calls 120
*** FLOP *** [Ad 2d Kh]
Seat1 checks
Seat2 bets 120
Seat1 calls 120
*** TURN *** [Ad 2d Kh] [As]
Seat1 checks
Seat2 bets 240
Seat1 folds
Uncalled bet of 240 returned to Seat2
Seat2 mucks
Seat2 wins the pot (720)
*** SUMMARY ***
Total pot 720 Rake 0
Board: [Ad 2d Kh As]
Seat 1: Seat1 (big blind) folded on the Turn
Seat 2: Seat2 (small blind) collected (720), mucked
Seat 1: Seat1 (760)
Seat 2: Seat2 (2,240)
Seat1 posts the small blind of 60
Seat2 posts the big blind of 120
The button is in seat #1
*** HOLE CARDS ***
Dealt to Seat2 [3s 6d 4s Ad]
Seat1 calls 60
Seat2 checks
*** FLOP *** [4c Ks 7c]
Seat2 bets 120
Seat1 calls 120
*** TURN *** [4c Ks 7c] [5h]
Seat2 bets 240
Seat1 raises to 480
Seat2 raises to 720
Seat1 calls 40, and is all in
Seat2 shows [3s 6d 4s Ad]
Seat1 shows [7d 5d 5c Tc]
Uncalled bet of 200 returned to Seat2
*** RIVER *** [4c Ks 7c 5h] [8d]
Seat2 shows a straight, Eight high, for high andSeat2 shows 7,5,4,3,A, for low
Seat1 shows three of a kind, Fives, for high
Seat2 wins the high pot (760) with a straight, Eight high
Seat2 wins the low pot (760) with 7,5,4,3,A
Seat1 stands up
Seat2 stands up
*** SUMMARY ***
Total pot 1,520 Rake 0
Board: [4c Ks 7c 5h 8d]
Seat 1: Seat1 (small blind) showed [7d 5d 5c Tc] and lost with HI: three of a kind, Fives
Seat 2: Seat2 (big blind) showed [3s 6d 4s Ad] and won (1,520) with HI: a straight, Eight high; LO: 7,5,4,3,A
Wednesday, March 12, 2008
Razz Pointers: 3rd & 4th Street
This is the first in a series of posts related to heads-up razz.
THIRD STREET:
As in any stud game, proper starting hands is a key to winning. However, when you are heads up, you will play a wide variety of hands. Razz is a game in which I rarely three bet unless I have a lock on my opponent. When you play heads-up razz, most pots are won on 3rd street. Here is a list of situations when you should complete the bet.
The ideal situation for 4th street is for you to improve your hand by catching another low card in addition to your low door card while your opponent catches a bad card. Obviously this doesn't happen all of the time, but 4th street play is pretty simple in my opinion. I think people over value marginal draws on 4th street that can get them in trouble on the expensive rounds.
THIRD STREET:
As in any stud game, proper starting hands is a key to winning. However, when you are heads up, you will play a wide variety of hands. Razz is a game in which I rarely three bet unless I have a lock on my opponent. When you play heads-up razz, most pots are won on 3rd street. Here is a list of situations when you should complete the bet.
- Complete if your 3 cards are lower than your opponents door card. This one should require no explanation. However, be careful if you are playing 3 medium cards and your opponent catches good on 4th.
- Complete if opponent is showing a door card of 10 or higher and you are showing a door card of 9 or lower. In these situations you want to win the pot on 3rd. You might have (K-10)-3 against an 8. You probably have the worst of it on 3rd, but you can easily get away from your hand on 4th if you hit a brick and your opponent catches good. The only exception to this are hands where you hold two paint cards in the hole and your opponent's door card is only one rank higher than yours. You may want to proceed a bit more cautiously with this kind of hand.
- When you are starting with the higher card, call with 3 to an 8 or better if your opponent is showing 8 or lower in the door. Normally, when you have the high card, it is best to simply fold (or take the free card). Don't call a completion with a paint door card (even if you have A-2 in the hole)--it simply invites your opponent to continue betting and you can wait for a better spot. You want to take control of the betting, not your opponent. Of course, I am talking about heads-up play, so you may want to call with hands like (A-3)-Q or (A-2)-J and hope your opponent has a marginal hand. Adding this little bit of variety in your play will keep your opponents guessing about whether or not you have a hand. It can also allow you to see a free fourth street if your opponent does not complete.
The ideal situation for 4th street is for you to improve your hand by catching another low card in addition to your low door card while your opponent catches a bad card. Obviously this doesn't happen all of the time, but 4th street play is pretty simple in my opinion. I think people over value marginal draws on 4th street that can get them in trouble on the expensive rounds.
- If you are showing the best hand, bet. If not, fold to a bet unless you have a good drawing hand (8 or better). As simple as this sounds, I find many players misplaying hands on 4th street. If you were trying to steal with a hand like (10-9)-4 and you catch an 8 against an opponents board of 2-4, just fold when your opponent leads out. You may have the best hand, but wouldn't you want to get your money in the middle in a better spot than this? I would. Razz is a game where you will often throw away the best hand. Remember that you are trying to get your opponent to lay down the best hand too. As long as your opponent lays down the best hand more often than you do, you will be a winner.
- If both you and your opponent improve, and you get raised on 4th street, you should fold "continuation bet hands" like (K-9)-2-3. As I stated earlier, I don't like three betting in this game. Even with (A-2)-3-4, you don' t have a made hand. You are a clear favorite, but wait and see what develops on 5th street before going crazy. Against a maniac style player, I would advise raising with a wheel draw on 4th. I would also raise with a draw to a 6 or smooth 7 or 8 against an opponent raising with a higher card on board.
Sunday, February 24, 2008
An Observation about Aggressive Players
Generally speaking, a tight aggressive style will bring home the money when you sit at a poker table. However, have you ever noticed how some of the looser aggressive players always seem to have your number? Lets assume that you are a tight player and you notice that another player is playing very loose and aggressive. This player is making the weaker competition fold when he bluffs and call when he has a good hand. You end up in a pot with this player and figure that your A-K is good on a board of K-8-2 rainbow. The maniac style player raises you a large amount as he has done to other players at the table and you call, figuring him for a bluff and he turns over 2-2 for a set and you're practically drawing dead.
Here is an observation I've had. This "maniac" knows that you are a tight player. He is trying to exploit his image by playing against you in the same fashion that he plays against the weaker players at the table. However, when he does this to you, the loose aggressive player will usually have a hand. Think about it. What kind of hands does this player need to raise you on the rainbow flop described earlier. Certainly he is not drawing in this situation. He is raising big hoping to get action from a hand that the tight player is "supposed to have" like A-K.
This "maniac" will play garbage against weak players and get them to fold. The "maniac" will play good hands against good players in the same fashion and hope to hit a monster. If you are playing tight, be aware when a good player raises you. They know you have a hand and it is most likely that they are holding a better hand. Also don't be fooled by an active player at the table who is chatting it up. Those players are trying to convey an image of being loose and aggressive when in reality, they are playing somewhat tight just like you. You always need to be observant when you are at the table.
Here is an observation I've had. This "maniac" knows that you are a tight player. He is trying to exploit his image by playing against you in the same fashion that he plays against the weaker players at the table. However, when he does this to you, the loose aggressive player will usually have a hand. Think about it. What kind of hands does this player need to raise you on the rainbow flop described earlier. Certainly he is not drawing in this situation. He is raising big hoping to get action from a hand that the tight player is "supposed to have" like A-K.
This "maniac" will play garbage against weak players and get them to fold. The "maniac" will play good hands against good players in the same fashion and hope to hit a monster. If you are playing tight, be aware when a good player raises you. They know you have a hand and it is most likely that they are holding a better hand. Also don't be fooled by an active player at the table who is chatting it up. Those players are trying to convey an image of being loose and aggressive when in reality, they are playing somewhat tight just like you. You always need to be observant when you are at the table.
Sunday, February 17, 2008
Losing a huge pot
My normal cash game of preference is $1/$2 no limt hold 'em. I was playing at one of my local casinos where the norm for players is to buy in for the $40 minimum. I bought in for my normal $200 and was up to $600 after winning a couple of big pots that were coin flips on the flop (K-K vs. Ace & open end straight draw; top two vs. flush and straight draw). At one point I had more cash than the rest of the table combined. The player to my right then went on a nice run and got his stack up to a little bit over $500 and had busted a couple of players in the process. We were now playing 5 handed. It is rare that two players will have such large stacks at this casino. Most players just lose $40 or $100 at a time and people play crazy enough that if you are up big, you usually take your money and run.
After a limp, the $500 stack player raises to $17. I'm on the button and look down to see A-A. I reraised to $50. Everyone folds and the initial raiser calls. The flop comes Q-8-4 rainbow. My opponent checks and I lead out for $60. I get check raised to $260. I now have to think this one over. I know my opponent isn't calling $50 pre-flop without a hand. I quickly eliminate 8-8 and 4-4 as those hands are not good enough for this opponent to call $50 pre-flop after getting reraised. A-A, K-K and Q-Q are likely hands for him to hold and there is even a chance he may be holding A-Q and put me on a hand like J-J pre-flop. My initial read pre-flop was that my opponent held K-K. I figured if I bet all-in on the flop he would fold. I was also thinking that there was a small chance that he held the other two aces. Of course, if he holds Q-Q, I'm in horrible shape.
I was thinking for at least 3 or 4 minutes on this hand. I was also trying to figure out why my opponent walked away from the table after rasing me the $200. The initial limper called the clock on me which I thought wasn't too kind as this was a huge decision. I obviously couldn't flat call the $200. I was either folding or going all in. Well, as the title of this entry suggests, I pushed all in. I was going with my initial read of K-K for my opponent. He had Q-Q and I didn't spike and ace on the turn and river and he won a pot for a little over $1,000. I took the beat in stride as that was mostly profit for the session. Losing big pots hurts a bit more when you lose "your money" as opposed to losing "their money".
Ironically after that hand, I get paid off when I made top boat against the sucker boat. I picked up A-A two more times but got little action on the hands. I then doubled up again when I turned the ace high flush against a flopped king high flush. I ended the session up about $150, but it coudl have been much more. That's poker.
After a limp, the $500 stack player raises to $17. I'm on the button and look down to see A-A. I reraised to $50. Everyone folds and the initial raiser calls. The flop comes Q-8-4 rainbow. My opponent checks and I lead out for $60. I get check raised to $260. I now have to think this one over. I know my opponent isn't calling $50 pre-flop without a hand. I quickly eliminate 8-8 and 4-4 as those hands are not good enough for this opponent to call $50 pre-flop after getting reraised. A-A, K-K and Q-Q are likely hands for him to hold and there is even a chance he may be holding A-Q and put me on a hand like J-J pre-flop. My initial read pre-flop was that my opponent held K-K. I figured if I bet all-in on the flop he would fold. I was also thinking that there was a small chance that he held the other two aces. Of course, if he holds Q-Q, I'm in horrible shape.
I was thinking for at least 3 or 4 minutes on this hand. I was also trying to figure out why my opponent walked away from the table after rasing me the $200. The initial limper called the clock on me which I thought wasn't too kind as this was a huge decision. I obviously couldn't flat call the $200. I was either folding or going all in. Well, as the title of this entry suggests, I pushed all in. I was going with my initial read of K-K for my opponent. He had Q-Q and I didn't spike and ace on the turn and river and he won a pot for a little over $1,000. I took the beat in stride as that was mostly profit for the session. Losing big pots hurts a bit more when you lose "your money" as opposed to losing "their money".
Ironically after that hand, I get paid off when I made top boat against the sucker boat. I picked up A-A two more times but got little action on the hands. I then doubled up again when I turned the ace high flush against a flopped king high flush. I ended the session up about $150, but it coudl have been much more. That's poker.
Thursday, February 14, 2008
Lead out with the nuts
It is often quite correct to slow play a flopped monster hand in hold 'em. When you flop top boat you want your opponents to catch up so that you have the opportunity to get paid off on later streets. However, in a split pot game like omaha 8/b, leading out with the nuts is normally better play. Of course, nothing in poker is absolute. In hold 'em, you can deceive your opponent by leading out with a big hand and in omaha 8/b, you can slow play big hands too.
Lets say you catch a lucky flop of 8-2-2 when you hold A-4-8-8 in the small blind. Yes, you flopped a full house and only quad deuces can beat you. However, you really don't want to see any more low cards. Sure, your A-4 may be the best low, but anyone that plays omaha 8/b on a regular basis will know that there is at least one player with the A-3 drawing for low. You don't want to share the pot. Protect your high hand and bet. At an aggressive table you can go for a check raise in this situation as well, but you are often better off betting. Especially in this example as it is likely that someone flopped a deuce. You can lead out and get raised and go for a 3 bet or a check raise on the turn to extract maximum value from your opponent.
Leading with a big hand is more important to do in pot limit omaha 8/b. You want to charge your opponent the maximum to draw for half of the pot when you have the other half locked up. In a pot limit omaha 8/b game, you ideally want to have the nuts one way and have a free roll for the other half. If you hold Ad-2d-6s-7s and the flop is 5c-8d-9d, you'll certainly want to get it all in. In split pot games, don't let your opponents draw to half of the pot for a cheap price. If you have the nuts, make sure you get the whole pot. After all, scooping situations is what split pot poker is all about.
Lets say you catch a lucky flop of 8-2-2 when you hold A-4-8-8 in the small blind. Yes, you flopped a full house and only quad deuces can beat you. However, you really don't want to see any more low cards. Sure, your A-4 may be the best low, but anyone that plays omaha 8/b on a regular basis will know that there is at least one player with the A-3 drawing for low. You don't want to share the pot. Protect your high hand and bet. At an aggressive table you can go for a check raise in this situation as well, but you are often better off betting. Especially in this example as it is likely that someone flopped a deuce. You can lead out and get raised and go for a 3 bet or a check raise on the turn to extract maximum value from your opponent.
Leading with a big hand is more important to do in pot limit omaha 8/b. You want to charge your opponent the maximum to draw for half of the pot when you have the other half locked up. In a pot limit omaha 8/b game, you ideally want to have the nuts one way and have a free roll for the other half. If you hold Ad-2d-6s-7s and the flop is 5c-8d-9d, you'll certainly want to get it all in. In split pot games, don't let your opponents draw to half of the pot for a cheap price. If you have the nuts, make sure you get the whole pot. After all, scooping situations is what split pot poker is all about.
Thursday, February 7, 2008
Why Professionals Bet Scary Flops
You can often find a professional or a skilled player betting into scary flops in hold 'em or omaha or when scary cards hit on the turn or river. The same can be said for stud games. The reason for this is that professionals can read their opponents better than an amatuer. However, one overlooked point about betting when scary cards hit has to do with your opponents. Whether you have a made monster hand or not, knowing your opponents well allows you to easily proceed on later betting rounds.
Obviously when you bet at a pot, nobody will complain when everyone folds and you drag the pot. If you are in the situation where you get called, depending on the opponent, you should be way ahead or way behind. If you know if you are way ahead or behind, you can easily proceed with subsequent betting rounds. If you flop top pair/kicker in hold 'em on a flushed flop and you get called by a rock, you are most likely running into a made flush. Knowing that, you can make easy decisions on the turn and river. If the board pairs, you may be able to push you opponent off of the hand, but you'll give up most of the time. Having easier decisions to make at the table will lead to better results. Think about it.
Obviously when you bet at a pot, nobody will complain when everyone folds and you drag the pot. If you are in the situation where you get called, depending on the opponent, you should be way ahead or way behind. If you know if you are way ahead or behind, you can easily proceed with subsequent betting rounds. If you flop top pair/kicker in hold 'em on a flushed flop and you get called by a rock, you are most likely running into a made flush. Knowing that, you can make easy decisions on the turn and river. If the board pairs, you may be able to push you opponent off of the hand, but you'll give up most of the time. Having easier decisions to make at the table will lead to better results. Think about it.
Sunday, January 20, 2008
HORSE
A few months ago I played in a HORSE tournament. For those that don't know, HORSE is a mixed games limit tournament consisting of Hold 'Em, Omaha 8/b, Razz, Stud, and Stud 8/b. I drew a table that played pretty solid for the most part. I even had a former world champion at my table. I managed to make a full house against him on 5th street in stud and led right out and bet it. I read him as strong, so I thought I may get action, but I guess my read was wrong as he folded on 5th.
I played very well for the most part in the tournament, but made one misplay in stud 8/b. I had an open pair of kings showing on 5th and was leading out against a player who was clearly drawing for low. I end up with kings up on 7th and lead out again only to get raised. I know that my opponent knows that I can't have a low, but I figured he wouldn't raise me unless he had my high beat with aces up or a straight. I folded my two pair and my opponent showed the bare low hand. I did use this tight image against this same player later in hold 'em to take away a few pots.
I normally take advantage of my opponents in the omaha 8/b rounds and in razz. However, I was not getting anything playable at all in omaha 8/b. I went through three whole rotations before I ever played an omaha 8/b hand. I finally three bet on the button with A-2-3-4. I was a bit short at this point and got good action. I made the wheel and had deuces full, but ran into a bigger boat for high. I had gotten short stacked after making a "genius call" that wasn't so genius in hold 'em when I called a guy down with ace high and ran into his pocket aces.
I got lucky in the middle stages of the tournament to make a low in omaha 8/b when my opponent was holding quads for high. I accumulated some chips in stud when I made some big hands against a calling station of a player. I got paid off on an ace high straight and in stud 8/b I made aces up with a 7 low and scooped the whole pot.
Normally, razz is one of my better games, but I wasn't catching good hands at the right times. I was short stacked and was in the process of playing a big razz pot. I bet on 7th with a jack low and got my opponent to fold his 10 low. I also got lucky to win a pot with a 9 low in a situation where my opponents board was quite scary.
While I played well in this tournament outside of a few minor mistakes, I was unable to accumulate a lot of chips. I got through about 2/3 of the field and busted out shortly after my table broke. We were playing stud and I got it all in with J-(10-8). I was fortunate to have a maniac player bet out with just a pair of deuces and got the pot heads up with me after forcing others to fold better hands. Of course, I didn't pair up and I was out. Hopefully, I can do better in the next HORSE event I play.
I played very well for the most part in the tournament, but made one misplay in stud 8/b. I had an open pair of kings showing on 5th and was leading out against a player who was clearly drawing for low. I end up with kings up on 7th and lead out again only to get raised. I know that my opponent knows that I can't have a low, but I figured he wouldn't raise me unless he had my high beat with aces up or a straight. I folded my two pair and my opponent showed the bare low hand. I did use this tight image against this same player later in hold 'em to take away a few pots.
I normally take advantage of my opponents in the omaha 8/b rounds and in razz. However, I was not getting anything playable at all in omaha 8/b. I went through three whole rotations before I ever played an omaha 8/b hand. I finally three bet on the button with A-2-3-4. I was a bit short at this point and got good action. I made the wheel and had deuces full, but ran into a bigger boat for high. I had gotten short stacked after making a "genius call" that wasn't so genius in hold 'em when I called a guy down with ace high and ran into his pocket aces.
I got lucky in the middle stages of the tournament to make a low in omaha 8/b when my opponent was holding quads for high. I accumulated some chips in stud when I made some big hands against a calling station of a player. I got paid off on an ace high straight and in stud 8/b I made aces up with a 7 low and scooped the whole pot.
Normally, razz is one of my better games, but I wasn't catching good hands at the right times. I was short stacked and was in the process of playing a big razz pot. I bet on 7th with a jack low and got my opponent to fold his 10 low. I also got lucky to win a pot with a 9 low in a situation where my opponents board was quite scary.
While I played well in this tournament outside of a few minor mistakes, I was unable to accumulate a lot of chips. I got through about 2/3 of the field and busted out shortly after my table broke. We were playing stud and I got it all in with J-(10-8). I was fortunate to have a maniac player bet out with just a pair of deuces and got the pot heads up with me after forcing others to fold better hands. Of course, I didn't pair up and I was out. Hopefully, I can do better in the next HORSE event I play.
Saturday, January 19, 2008
Buy In Amounts
Most low stakes no limit hold 'em games or pot limit omaha games will have a cap on how much you can buy into the game for. This prevents someone from over bullying with a large stack as soon as they sit down. Obviously, if someone is sitting with a large stack, they probably earned it or got lucky. I'll focus on $1/$2 no limit hold 'em as that is my most profitable game. There is a lot of great literature regarding playing a short stack in PLO and playing a large stack.
When I sit down at a poker table, I'm pretty confident in my abilities and feel that I am probably one of the better players at the table. Because of this, I will normally buy in for the maximum (whether that is $200, $300, or $500, etc.). I want to have a lot of chips in front of me so that if I have the opportunity to play a big pot with another big stack, I can win a lot of money. If I'm on short chips, I don't have the opportunity to bust anyone when I flop bottom quads against top boat. Having a lot of chips also lets me see a few extra flops than I would on a short stack. I'm still playing tight aggressive on a big stack, but I'll see a few more flops with suited connectors and such when pot odds warrant.
If you are just starting out, I would recommend buying in for the minimum. This will basically limit your losses on any given hand. You can also buy in for the minimum if you are going to be seated at a table full of deep stacked players. Lets say the maximum buy in is $200 and the other 8 players are all sitting with over $800 each. You may be better off playing a short stack and gambling a little bit on a minimum buy than a full buy. You can also buy in for some amount between the minimum and maximum in similar situations.
One overlooked point about max buy in cash games is that you can always reload up to the maximum buy in at any point in time. Normally, if I buy in for a $200 maximum, I will keep another $100 in green chips in my pocket. If my stack drops below $175, I'll casually drop a green chip on the table and instantly reload. This way, I can be at the maximum when I play a big pot and hopefully double up or bust another player. The other advantage of this is that a lot of players will not notice your newly found green chips and might think you are playing fewer chips than you are actually playing. This is why I prefer to reload with the green $25 chips as opposed to the red $5 chips.
Normally, in $1/$2 no limit hold 'em games, there are only $1 chips and $5 chips in play. Adding a few $25 chips into play may allow you to make a play on an opponent. Some players will envy your green chips and do anything they can to get them. Against these players, I'll only bet the greens when I have the nuts. Other players will fear the green chip, thinking that you don't want to part with them and when you bet a green chip, you have the nuts. I may be more inclined to bluff with the green chips against those players. You just have to feel out your opponents to see how they would react to a green chip.
When I sit down at a poker table, I'm pretty confident in my abilities and feel that I am probably one of the better players at the table. Because of this, I will normally buy in for the maximum (whether that is $200, $300, or $500, etc.). I want to have a lot of chips in front of me so that if I have the opportunity to play a big pot with another big stack, I can win a lot of money. If I'm on short chips, I don't have the opportunity to bust anyone when I flop bottom quads against top boat. Having a lot of chips also lets me see a few extra flops than I would on a short stack. I'm still playing tight aggressive on a big stack, but I'll see a few more flops with suited connectors and such when pot odds warrant.
If you are just starting out, I would recommend buying in for the minimum. This will basically limit your losses on any given hand. You can also buy in for the minimum if you are going to be seated at a table full of deep stacked players. Lets say the maximum buy in is $200 and the other 8 players are all sitting with over $800 each. You may be better off playing a short stack and gambling a little bit on a minimum buy than a full buy. You can also buy in for some amount between the minimum and maximum in similar situations.
One overlooked point about max buy in cash games is that you can always reload up to the maximum buy in at any point in time. Normally, if I buy in for a $200 maximum, I will keep another $100 in green chips in my pocket. If my stack drops below $175, I'll casually drop a green chip on the table and instantly reload. This way, I can be at the maximum when I play a big pot and hopefully double up or bust another player. The other advantage of this is that a lot of players will not notice your newly found green chips and might think you are playing fewer chips than you are actually playing. This is why I prefer to reload with the green $25 chips as opposed to the red $5 chips.
Normally, in $1/$2 no limit hold 'em games, there are only $1 chips and $5 chips in play. Adding a few $25 chips into play may allow you to make a play on an opponent. Some players will envy your green chips and do anything they can to get them. Against these players, I'll only bet the greens when I have the nuts. Other players will fear the green chip, thinking that you don't want to part with them and when you bet a green chip, you have the nuts. I may be more inclined to bluff with the green chips against those players. You just have to feel out your opponents to see how they would react to a green chip.
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